Leaving the Second Era of Plastic Weekly Behind

With the release of this video, Plastic Weekly leaves it’s second era behind. The search for the third era (or just 2.5) begins.

I started Plastic Weekly in 2017 when I was getting bored of my job and listening to a lot of influential podcasts. I wanted to make something as informative and intelligent as The Agenda, a long-running public television show here in Ontario. I wanted it to be a little irreverent like the Jesse Brown’s Canadaland shows at the time, and the design of this website was copied almost entirely from The West Wing Weekly.

I hate editing though, and audio podcasts need to sound pleasing. You’ve gotta trim the gaps, delete the wandering sentences, and balance the levels well enough to accommodate someone listening in a bass-y car stereo, or in maxxed out shitty earbuds on a loud subway. Editing a weekly audio product was too much work and it left too many opportunities for perfectionist tendencies to delay or ruin a release. After 30 episodes across a stop-start year, I was done.

Video was appealing for a few reasons. With both audio and video cues, the audio doesn’t have to be as perfectly produced. I’m not sure why, but having two of your senses activated seems to let your brain ignore (or accept) imperfections in one manner or another.

I was also beginning to commentate for more live streamed climbing competitions, and I wanted practice being on camera. I don’t think many people are able to “be themselves” when a camera is pointed at them. The Counter-Strike commentators and analysts I admired always talked about how they had honed their craft on camera by way of being forced to talk through endless technical delays, “filling” on camera while admins tried to get players reconnected to servers or exchanged faulty hardware. Sometimes there would be two guys commentating for 12 hours in a row, compelled to make interesting conversation without the help of graphics or producers.

I figured I could get that kind of practice by producing some kind of long form, unscripted talk show. Have it be long enough and frequent enough to get some serious hours talking into a camera, trying to be my real self. I wanted to make a show after each World Cup that would be conversational, funny, and adversarial enough to put me on the spot. Make me defend an argument from an attack I hadn’t expected or respond to a joke at my expense, just put me on the spot and don’t let me “have another take”. Just hit record at the beginning, and tough it out til the end. No edits.

When I went searching for a co-host, John Burgman was the man with the bylines in Climbing Magazine, covering all the comps. At that time in early 2018 with a long beard and a bun of hair behind his head, John was immediately enthusiastic and our first Skype call was one of my favourite moments in my time making Plastic Weekly. He was a fan of many sports, and was fluent in competitive analysis and coverage in a way that I wanted to be. We ran The Debrief for 5 IFSC seasons and enjoyed almost every minute of each other’s texts, conversations, and rants. Finally meeting John in person at the 2022 Salt Lake City world cups verified how genuine a friend he is. I love that guy.

At the end of five seasons, we were having trouble finding guests who had actually watched the comps, or who had working internet, or who were available to record when John and I could make time. Some episodes left me feeling like our analysis was getting repetitive. I was really happy with how we had improved our topic selection, and my thumbnail-making skills were waaaaay better in 2023 than in 2018, and I was getting better at ignoring view counts and dismissive comments. But I think both of us were ready to move on. A few weeks before the start of the 2024 season we texted back and forth while I was on vacation in Arizona, and it was obvious we were both on the same page.

The Debrief name won’t be attached to any show that doesn’t feature both of John and I, but I’m still interested in creating more long form chat shows. I’m not going to find someone as researched, as published, as charismatic, and as in-the-same-time-zone-as-me as JBu any time soon, but when that person appears I’ll be dropping them a message.

So after an era of audio podcasts, and then an era of long unedited chat shows, I have to find the next thing. Late last night I published the video above, less than 24 hours after the end of the Keqiao World Cup. While the end product is about 1/6th the length of an episode of The Debrief, it took about twice as long to make. The time watching the events was the same, making the thumbnail was about the same, and uploading/processing was about the same, but I spend as much time recording those 15 minutes and trying to express myself properly as I would have recording a one-take episode of The Debrief. Add 4 hours of editing the clips and graphics together, and it was about twice as much production time as the old show. I’m not sure I’ll have the time or motivation to do that regularly. But as a temporary stand-in, or as an experimental form to discover what I enjoy recording, it’s a good place to start.

Whatever’s next, thanks for watching along, or listening or reading along. At the end, I must give special thanks to Cory and his family (“TheG5”) and Scott Rennak for being our biggest supporters in The Debrief years, in both funding and encouragement.

Are the best climbers really getting younger?

2019 saw an influx of young female talent in the lead discipline that got everyone spouting that perennial cliche: "these climbers keep getting younger!" But is the field- or even just the winners- really younger than before?

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2018 Season Ranking Roundup

With the end of the World Championships in Innsbruck, the 2018 bouldering season has officially come to a close. It also marks the end of the first season of my Canadian Boulder Rankings, which began last September and was finally published in January.

I built this ranking system because I love how rankings and ratings can build narratives for competitions. It also makes it easier to track the bigger picture across a season: individual results from a single event can be affected by a huge range of factors, and I find it difficult to remember who was injured, who was in Group A or B, or who just claimed they “had a bad day.” Taking information from every event and putting it all together helps to round out those outliers, and gives a reasonable fair summary of each athlete’s performance.

I wanted to reflect a bit on how the season played out within the rankings, and I want to share some insight on some new things I may try to make the system even better.

Alannah Yip and Sean McColl earn the #1 spot in the PW Canadian Boulder Rankings for the 2018 season. Photos courtesy of the IFSC.

Alannah Yip and Sean McColl earn the #1 spot in the PW Canadian Boulder Rankings for the 2018 season. Photos courtesy of the IFSC.

2018

Alannah Yip and Sean McColl are the “winners” of this first season of these rankings. McColl never actually secured the #1 spot until his win at CEC Nationals, as that was the first time he bouldered against a fellow Canadian since the 2017 Munich World Cup. McColl’s underperformance at the World Championships briefly left the door open for Jason Holowach to overtake him in points, but it wasn’t enough to overcome McColl’s international season.

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Conversely, Yip held #1 through the entire season despite her loss to Allison Vest at CEC Nationals. That painful defeat was nullified after Yip fought to become the top-placing Canadian at every World Cup she attended.

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Ranking Inconsistencies

These champions are logics winners, and I believe most spectators would come to the same conclusion if they were asked for their “top Canadian boulderer of 2018.” In reality, there are still a lot of factors within this ranking system that would appear inconsistent with normal logic: namely, the huge importance this system places on attending events.

Any athlete can increase their scores by attending more events, and a great example of where that has caused the rankings to directly contradict results is between Bronwen Karnis and Alyssa Weber. Weber attended both the CEC National Series event in British Columbia and Alberta this season, earning ranking points for winning both events against other strong competitors. Karnis only attended the Ontario event, earning points for her win but still coming away with only about half of what Weber earned because of competing in one fewer event. In the end, Weber ends the season with more points and a higher rank than Karnis, even though Karnis has outperformed Weber every time they’ve met over the last two seasons (CEC Nationals 2017, CEC Nationals 2018, Vail WC 2018).

I mostly accept these flaws because a) my system doesn’t have much flexibility to adjust for them without creating a huge amount of extra work, and b) because the Canadian competitive season is constantly changing. For 2019, National Series events will no longer exist and a replacement system will likely be debuted by the CEC in 2020. In addition, the once-pervasive Tour de Bloc continues to shrink, and prize-rich “local” events like Bloc Shop Open are growing and may coalesce into an informal “national circuit”.

In the future, there will likely be a circuit of events that are evenly distributed across the country, and hopefully increased prize pools will contribute to more head-to-head opportunities for Canadian athletes. Until then, I’m not very motivated to try to artificially balance the calendar when everything is constantly changing. The value of events will continue to be based on how many other top athletes are competing, and by the quality of the format.

2019

Starting Monday, a new season will begin with results from Bloc Shop Open, The Brawl in the Fall, and maybe a few others. Climbers like Sean McColl will inevitably see a drop in their rank as they focus on other disciplines, and as lesser athletes earn points by competing through the entirely of the local/provincial circuit. This throws the top athletes under the bus for a while, but it makes it easy to spot up-and-comers. Rookies for the upcoming season were born in 2003, and one or two these young guns could make a big impact on the top 20.

System plans for 2019

My dream ranking system would look at head-to-head results across every athlete, and across every individual boulder. Starting with Bloc Shop Open, I’ll be tracking event results across each round individually (qualifiers, semis, finals). This will give up to 2 more opportunities per comp to compare the best athletes, which will hopefully create a more accurate ranking. I still need to determine how the point values will break down when compared to comps that don’t provide a round-by-round breakdown, but this whole thing is in beta so occasional tweaks are the norm.

Anyway, I’m looking forward to running this system through a full season with an even stronger crew. Hopefully we’ll see names like Elan Jonas McCrae, Elise Sethna, and Eric Sethna return to the scene. A system like this gets even more valuable when comparing athletes across entire seasons, so I’m excited to tell even better stories a year from now!

Climbing Gym Manager vs Climbing Gym Manager

Alex Honnold is our secret social media influencer, rope walls are the best place for boulders, and backfilled autobelays work better when you don't put any effort into setting them. Max and I work for competing gyms that are just 15 minutes apart, so our conversations are always a mix of busting each other's balls and comparing notes about our local gym scene.

Thanks to Maxwell Summerlee of Basecamp Climbing for trying out a new idea with me.